So, the question is simple yet somewhat complex. Can streetwear publications really become fashion brands? 

A lot of change has taken place within the area of fashion retail over the last few years, especially since the implementation of forced global lockdowns due to the coronavirus pandemic. And this degree of metamorphosis hasn’t become an option, but yet a necessity, for business survival within a struggling field. This necessity for reinvention within an industry yearning for change has birthed a super interesting concept ‘called experiential retail’. This retail concept places more emphasis on the overall customer in-store experience, rather than just the product being sold. An interesting example of the phenomenon of experiential retail is streetwear fashion publications, such as Highsnobiety and Hypebeast, reforming themselves into brick and mortar fashion brands.

So to analyse the full scale impact of such unique experiential retail strategies, we can look at ‘Gate Zero’, the first string of merchandise offerings from German streetwear media publication, Highsnobiety, in collaboration with various airports around the world. The second, and most recent, instalment of Gate Zero resulted in a permanent retail space, located inside the Kastrup International Airport in Copenhagen, Denmark.

Let’s take a look at where it all began; last year with the first Gate Zero capsule collection in collaboration with the biggest airport in Switzerland, Zurich Airport. 

Towards the end of last year, Highsnobiety took to their platforms to announce a unique first-of-its-kind collaboration, between a streetwear publication and an airport. Lia McGarrigle of Highsnobiety writes: “For six months, Highsnobiety has had a brick and mortar location at Zurich Airport complete with a curated selection of products and exclusive releases from over 20 brands.”

Highsnobiety items included wear-anywhere tees, hoodies, long-sleeves & tote bags, and any comfortable and usable product to enhance your airport experience. Curated brands also included Jill Sander, Salomon and more globally reputable brands. Why airports? Well, airport shopping is an area which Highsnobiety seems to have found great potential in. David Fischer of Highsnobiety explained to Vogue: “Airport shopping is lacking in a lot of areas. You could be at one of the best airports in the world and not be able to find a single brand that you normally shop at in the city you live in.”

And six months later, in May this year, Gate Zero returned with their second brick and mortar instalment, a permanent retail store situated inside the Kastrup International Airport, in Copenhagen. Brands stocked are trendy and coveted luxury brands with a multitude of apparel and lifestyle products available. These include Acne Studios, Comme des Garçons, 1017 ALYX 9SM, AMBUSH and more.

The implementation of this unique retail strategy comes on the back of Highsnobiety’s purchase by Zalando, as the German fashion e-tailer recently purchased the majority stake in the high-end streetwear platform. Once you consider Zalando’s impressive history of expertise within this area of fashion, you begin to understand this newfound dash for retail, as a bet to try and combine the power of content and commerce. Berlin based publication-turned-brand ‘032c’ are a classic example of a hybrid publication which manages to achieve this.

So about a couple of weeks ago, when fellow streetwear publication competitors, Hypebeast, took to their platforms to announce plans of opening their first retail U.S brick and mortar flagship store in downtown New York, it became abundantly clear that more and more media publications feel confident enough in their blueprints to start off fashion brands. Felson Sajonas of Hypebeast wrote the following about the news:

“HBX, Hypebeast’s ecommerce and retail platform, is opening its first U.S. brick and mortar flagship store. Located in the heart of New York City’s Chinatown, the 25,000 square-foot space will offer a carefully curated selection of products from a variety of brands. Shoppers will find sneakers, apparel and accessories from top HBX labels such as Nike, Adidas, Moncler, Stussy and more. Special in-store only items as well as HBX exclusives will also be available for patrons to purchase in the near future.”

I think this is a strategic move from Hypebeast, as much as it was from Highsnobiety. I fully agree with the notion that independent fashion publications can become brands – just as long as they have a strong community centred around their publication. Because there is quite a difference between the brand loyalty of supporting a free online publication which provides you with content, compared to using your hard-earned cash to purchase merchandise made by a brand.

It’s subjective and up to the individual which one weighs more, but my point is that they aren’t equal.

With whatever type of business you are running, one should never underestimate the power of community. The global pandemic has reminded us that entrepreneurs need to remain agile, in whatever industry they’re in. Ecologies can shift pretty quickly so if you aren’t always prepared, at any point in time the rug can be pulled from right under you. This is what makes these movements so interesting – the sense that the retail rulebook is up for grabs, and that no one is beyond having to adapt or reinvent their vision.

Written by: Odwa Zamane

/// images all sourced via Highsnobiety