10 Apr 2023 ///

SA Menswear Returns for Autumn/Winter 23

Fashion week’s are officially, and for real, back in action. I know, last year we had them too; but something about 2023 has been feeling as if the pandemic never happened. What a strange and surreal time that was; and also a time that a lot of creatives and designers, got their proverbial sh*t together, to focus or conquer their dreams. SA Menswear Week has been a mainstay of the fashion scene in Cape Town for a number of years, founded and led by the multi-talented and deeply passionate Simon Deiner. It is rare, but truly South African, that Simon is both the creative director of the SA Menswear brand, as well as its in-house, runway photographer; Simon’s image library is a profound archive of its history, alongside other shows that happen throughout the year. I often talk about the ‘emergence’ of our fashion industry – but while it’s young, and quite small, it is no less powerful, and continues to reflect the commitment of industry roleplayers to forging South Africa as a leading design fulcrum on the continent. Now taking placing at Wonderland Studios, this bi-annual event is ‘menswear’ focused and makes the case for the improvement and proliferation of menswear in South Africa, however – it has no rules about the showcasing of womensear, with many designers using the opportunity to showcase both aspects of their label’s offering. This freedom allows Cape Town based designers to show on their doorstep, unconstrained, with other designers joining from around the country and region to showcase, too.

It’s always a tough task to whittle down who we should cover; as everyone’s effort and vision is worthy. Highlighting a few of our favourites, in no particular order, hopefully offers a broad picture of what the Saturday’s offering at SA Menswear AW23 was like – remember, nothing beats a runway in real time.

/// Nao Serati

When we saw the AW23 schedule, Nao Serati’s name caught our attention immediately; it’s no secret that we are major fans (huge). Neo Serati Mofammere, the genius behind the label, does not work along seasonal schedules or calendars; rather, his collections arise precisely when they need to – so, it was a real treat that this aligned with a runway showcase at SA Menswear Week. Neo is a master of tailoring and has been behind some of the most iconic constructions of leather that we have seen in South African design in recent years – read our conversation with him here, to learn more of his process. This season’s collection was introduced by the label in the following words, “inspired by the black punk culture, our a/w 23 collection looks at the black male experience using fabric resembling skin and the muscular structure of the male body. Tearing down the construct of hard punk and using it gently and softly with the use of hard & soft leather to engage in how the male body is made to build but also broken down by societal disdain.” The result – the most beautiful tawny, russert brown leather made their way down the runway, expertly rendered in an array of silhouettes and shapes that suffice to say, were MOMENTS. One thing about Nao Serati – the brand is going to make you feel alive when it comes to construction and tailoring. In its softness, and celebration of the male form, one look featured a cropped top stating ‘SAVE UGANDA’, in reference to recent passing of Uganda’s anti-gay bill. Nao Serati continues to demonstrate both the fantasy of fashion, and the reality of how identity can and should be celebrated; with gentle activism, and a commitment to expression.

/// Xolani Mawande

Xolani Mawande is a self-taught designer with a growing repertoire as someone firmly committed to showcasing the softness and elegance of both men and women. This season saw the infamous polka-dots as the blueprint for Xolani’s AW23 collection; acrossing a variety of shades, and in the context of both men’s and womensear. The construction of the pieces offered a soft melody of bows and panels, instilling a classic sensibility of dressing, contrasted against the loud and proud fabrications. We simply loved the model who walked out, pregnant belly bare, showcasing the chic-ness and charisma of being a life-giving and creating woman. That’s power.

/// Masa Mara

If you don’t know Eli Gold AKA Nyambo Masamara’s story, I recommend reading this amazing deep dive by Kathy Berman. Nyambo’s story encompasses in so many ways, the trials and triumphs of being African without borders – he is Rwandan-born, and travelled solo as a thirteen year old kid, to South Africa to be with his brother. Now, he is an artist, and the designer behind Masa Mara – one of the most culturally influential issues of African sartorial consciousness in recent years. With Nyambo, you know it’s always going to be deep and utterly, utterly beautiful, so when model Jency inaugurated the show, titled ‘Urumuri (Light)’, with a ceremonial dance; we knew we were watching a show that holds within it the truth and power of being African. Innately spiritual and deeply moving, the garments that followed articulated all manner of kaleidoscopic frenzy – draped, darted and constructed in contrasts and hues that only Masamara can do. With Nyambo’s signature ‘horns’ (referencing his own hair, and a code of the brand) forming headdresses on some models; this was a study in the importance of holding a runway show as a performance for one’s community. Outstanding.

/// INFLUHKS

INFLUHKS is the streetwear strong-hold of Cape Town, with founder Samson Ajibade a fast-track OG of Africa fashion. He owns and runs the INFUHKS store, which houses a variety of brands, while designing his own label Lazy Stacks. This season, he also showed under the INFLUHKS moniker – with a concise call to action embroidered on one of the garments, ‘SUPPORT LOCAL BRANDS’. If you know Sam and the INFLUHKS story, you’ll know his unwavering commitment to local production, so much so that he has extended the store to feature an in-house production component, with much of what is sold in the store being manufactured and designed on-site. Talk about circularity. This season, AW23 saw streetwear-style graphics and colours, with a kid-next-door mood – and the padded, quilted showstopping jumpsuit was a serious vibe. Sam, and the brands within his sphere, were the entire subject of our retrospect last year – and they just keep going.

/// Nguni Shades

Durban-based design duo Nosipho Diko and Shaun Dugen-Majola offered up a full menswear collection focused primarily around denim. With some incredibly constructed jackets, the masculinity of this show rang true to SA Menswear’s original purpose; showcasing the sartorial possibilities for menswear. What makes this collection stand-out to us is the commercial viability of it; the quiet power of envisioning each piece holding its own on a rack or rail in a store, or in a variety of people’s wardrobes. In essence, this brought us back to a big point of fashion week showcases – to equip designers with a space to showcase their talent, but also to network them with an industry that can assist in keeping the business of fashion moving forward in South Africa. Nguni Shades exemplified the importance of statement AND staple pieces, so that local fashion can become an integrated mainstay of everyday living.

/// Flux

Flux Luxury forms part of the INFLUHKS family. With their debut last year at SA Menswear Week, they were back this season with a new and equal focus on womenswear. We love that many of the streetwear brands see no delineation between the importance of men and women in streetwear – which historically has been a masculine stronghold. With a dip into ‘80s retro visions (that purple jumpsuit!) & THAT black, short coat – Flux came through with the styling that set a mood and tone seemingly felt by the entire Influhks family – retro, illustrative and playful vibes for autumn and winter, and possibly all year around.